Bidmead Bites

Eat, drink and explore with Eve Bidmead

Navigation
  • About me
  • Food for thought
  • Recipes
  • Contact

Offally good stuff – Stomach and salsa in Barranquilla

11th November 2014 by Eve Bidmead Leave a Comment

Read any guide book that refers to Barranquilla and you probably won’t be stopping by. Often referred to as ‘just a stop on the way to the far more agreeable Cartagena or Santa Marta’ (Lonely Planet direct quote), Barranquilla is not one of the coast’s touristic hot spots.

Oh so many beautiful. . .apartment blocks?

But for that, I love it. Barranquilla is a real coastal Colombian town, where the local phrase is ‘cogerla suave‘, meaning ‘take it easy’ (unless you’re from a Spanish-speaking country where coger has quite a different, naughtier meaning, but we’ll ignore that for now). Life is relaxed and people like to dance, spend time with friends and generally enjoy themselves. What better way to enjoy yourself than a night out on the town, dancing away to the sound of salsa?

La Troja

La Troja is a Barranquilla institution, and was described perfectly by a friend here as ‘an attack on the senses’. It’s loud, bright and crowded – and an incredible amount of fun. Playing purely salsa, if you’re looking for an authentic barranquillero night out, this is the place to come. The crowd is mixed, meaning you’re just as likely to find a group of young ex-pats here as you are a solitary salsa-dancing senior. It’s the kind of ‘anything goes’ type of place which makes me love where I live.

IMG_20141018_011033

In my element

Perhaps another one of my main draws to La Troja is the atmosphere around it. If you can’t grab a table inside, head out to the off-licence in front, where there is always a massive crowd chatting, dancing and soaking up the salsa. Also surrounding it are an array of street food stands. While the majority of people might head for a simple chuzo en palo (meat skewer with potato), the more adventurous of us head elsewhere.

You’ll find me at El Piqueteadero, where my love of all things meaty has found its match. Forget your typical Friday night drunken kebab, because here the party-goers late night food of choice comes in the form of pigs ear, lung, intestine and tongue to name but a few consumable animal parts. If it’s a piece of meat you’d never consider eating, you’re likely to find it here, deep fried and served alongside tiny boiled potatoes.

IMG_20141018_034105
These often neglected parts of meat are known as offal (or ‘variety meats’) in English and visceras in Spanish. The term offal refers to just organ meats, but can also be used to describe cuts such as ear and tongue. There are two different types of offal, labelled either ‘red’ or ‘white’. Offal such as liver, heart, tongue, lungs, kidney and spleen are labelled as red, due to the fact these parts are more ‘meat’ like. Cuts such as intestines, stomach, brains, and sweetbreads come under the white category, due to their appearance and slightly more foreign taste and texture.

visceras

No donner kebab here I’m afraid

However, be it red or white, the idea of eating an animal’s insides seems to creep a few people out. But listen up meat eaters. If you’re perfectly happy to buy a pre-packaged, pumped up chicken breast in the supermarket yet squirm at the idea of getting down to the butchers and buying some blood sausage, I’d have a second think. In this day and age we don’t need to eat meat. We can find all the necessary protein and vitamins we need through other sources, and the process of feeding animals reared for meat creates an enormous amount of pollution. There’s also of course the ethics actually eating meat, but I don’t feel this post quite warrants discussion on that. If we choose to continually kill animals for food, I think it is important to make full use of the meat available. A great documentary on the meat industry is Get Vegucated, and if you want to know more on the topic I really recommend it.

My bowl at El Picadero

If you’d eat a sirloin or rump steak, you’re eating a cow’s arse. I ask…how far is that from eating its kidney or liver? Or, if your like me and want to try it all, opt for some black pudding (morcilla), pig ear, sheep lung (bofe), cow tongue, a sausage called longaniza and intenstine. Well…at least that´s what my bowl from El Piqueteadero consisted of.

While it was good to try it all, I established a few things. This was not the finest black pudding I had eaten, pig’s ear is surprisingly delicious, lung isn’t my favourite, and tongue is almost too much like a normal cut of meat to even earn its offal status. I’ve now visited La Troja on numerous occasions, and even if not to eat there I will always pass by and have a chat at El Piqueteadero. Perhaps it’s odd that I’m now a recognised face at the fried offal stand, but otherwise how would I check out the variety of odd things on offer, and know what is still left to try? As it stands, testicles and cow udder is my next nibble of choice. Stay tuned for that!

10407979_10152851041077244_7782260407895148382_n

Bollocks in a bowl. Well, not quite, but on this list for next time!

Filed Under: barranquilla, Uncategorised Tagged With: barranquilla, colombia, get vegucated, la troja, offal, picada, salsa

« Munching in Medellin
British Baking (with a Barranquillero twist) »

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Welcome!

Let’s be social

BidmeadBites on Instagram

bidmeadbites

Being sun safe whilst working at the vineyard ☀️🍷🍇 #masvincenç #nosfuimosparaelcampo
Hazelnut fruit cake adapted from Ottolenghi’s Si Hazelnut fruit cake adapted from Ottolenghi’s Simple; one of my favourite ever bakes. Recipe now on the blog, link in bio. 🍰🌰🍑#hazelnutcake #ottolenghisimple #bidmeadbakes
From fried pork belly to vegan miso aubergine beca From fried pork belly to vegan miso aubergine because I think that’s what they call balance. First time using aubergine emoji in proper context 🍆 #greenroastingtin #misoaubergine
Arepas con chicharrón - recipe on the blog, link Arepas con chicharrón - recipe on the blog, link in bio. Really easy to make and can be paired with loads of other things!🇨🇴👩🏻‍🍳🥓#colombianrecipes #chicharron #arepas #enbarranquillamequedo
Barranquilla carnival with @yorecomiendobaq, proba Barranquilla carnival with @yorecomiendobaq, probably hunting down some sanchoco de guandul 🇨🇴🇬🇧❤️#takemeback #carnavaldebarranquilla #sancochodeguandul
Pollo alla puttanesca (or something like that) wit Pollo alla puttanesca (or something like that) with chicken in black olive tapenade and other delicious savoury things. 🐓🍗🥦#winnerwinnerchickendinner #chickentraybake
BidmeadBites returns with a new blog post on the w BidmeadBites returns with a new blog post on the world famous 3-ingredient pasta sauce. A cracking store cupboard recipe for these “unprecedented times we are living in”. The link is my bio, enjoy! 🍝🍅#marcellahazantomatosauce #pastasauce #coronacooking
Rhubarb and raspberry crumble cake because it’s Rhubarb and raspberry crumble cake because it’s a great time to get back to baking 👍🍰#dianahenry #bidmeadbakes
Spending my quarantine chocolate tasting 🍫 #ton Spending my quarantine chocolate tasting 🍫 #tonyschocolonely
Istanbul’s Gran Bazaar - intense haggling over r Istanbul’s Gran Bazaar - intense haggling over rings, spices and crockery in preparation for book deal negotiations #fellowshipistanbul #granbazaar #turkishspices 🇹🇷📚
While I was seriously evaluating the menu at @eata While I was seriously evaluating the menu at @eatalytorino, my dad was taking arty snaps on his phone. 🇮🇹🍝🥩#eatalytorino #iwanttoorderitall
Patagonia - rain, sun, mucho mate and lamb everyth Patagonia - rain, sun, mucho mate and lamb everything. 🏔🌲🌧🌞🐑🇦🇷 #barilocheargentina #villalangostura
Argentine pizza - too much cheese, too thick a bas Argentine pizza - too much cheese, too thick a base...yet I keep coming back. More so if there’s an empanada on the side 🍕🇦🇷#pizzaargentina #fugazzeta
Ceviche and crazy views in Villa Langostura 🏔🌲🐠🦑#villalangostura #miradorsocialclub
Getting my five a day serving of empanadas 😍❤ Getting my five a day serving of empanadas 😍❤️#empanadasargentinas #bariloche
Manejando la pari 💪🇦🇷🐄 Manejando la pari 💪🇦🇷🐄
Katsu sando - Japanese, Chinese & Korean flavours Katsu sando - Japanese, Chinese & Korean flavours mixed with Argentine meat is genius. 🇦🇷🥩#katsusando #niñogordobuenosaires
Liming down the islands with our very special brid Liming down the islands with our very special bride👰🏻🍈🌴🌊🇹🇹💃🏼 #downtheislands #sundaylime #dayafterthebachelorette
Bake & Shark - breaded shark in a fried doughy fla Bake & Shark - breaded shark in a fried doughy flatbread with all the fillings (no pepper sauce, as our friend advised “probably lay low on that 😌). 🦈🥯🌶🥑🥬🥒🇹🇹
Curry crab, dumpling and callaloo in Store Bay 🇹🇹🦀🌴#trinifood #tobagoeats #crownpoint
Follow on Instagram

Recent Posts

  • Hazelnut fruit cake recipe – Ottolenghi inspired
  • Arepas & Chicharrón recipe
  • The easiest tomato sauce you’ll ever make
  • Etles – a taste of Northern China in Walthamstow
  • El Obrero & Pizzería Güerrin – two Buenos Aires institutions

Browse posts by month

Search the site

Browse posts by category

Copyright © 2022 · Foodie Child Theme by Shay Bocks · Built on the Genesis Framework · Powered by WordPress